Hozhead

As some people know, my exhaust pipe suffered some damage from my stand when hauling the bike back from last week's race. Basically, the stand was straddling the rear tire and the bumps in the road made the suspension compress and jam the pipe onto my stand - punching some holes in the carbon fiber.
Rather than just replace the pipe (I just got this on in the fall after a tree munched my last one), I opted to do the stunter's trick of shortening the can.

Step 1) Measure the amount to be removed and mark it all the way around.

Step 2) Cut the outside shell of the pipe (don't go any deeper) with a hack saw or sawzall (I love a good sawzall). I didn't cut the inside pieces with the same cut because my damage was at the inlet of the pipe but the inside tube was welded on that end and would slide out from the outlet side. It would have sucked to break the welds and then try to tack weld it back together - especially without a welder.

Step 3) Pull the two sections apart. The inside mesh tube and the packing will remain intact and pull away from one end of the pipe.

Step 4) Drill out the rivets from the short section that you are removing. Remove the section of outer shell that you've designated as the junk end. A Dremel and cutting wheel help.

Step 5) Measure and mark the packing and inside tube for cutting. Be sure to leave enough packing to completely fill the length of the tube including any overhang created by the end caps. Also be sure to make the inside tube long enough to still slide to the original position in the end cap (there's about 1" overlap in mine).

Step 6) Cut the packing and inside tube (the sawzall is great again!)

Step 7) Mark and drill rivet holes in the outside shell (I did a partial assembly to line the pieces up then used a sharpie to make where to drill)

Step 8) Run a small bead of high temp silicone around the end cap that has no shell on it. This will make for a better seal after assembly and is what the factory does.

Step 8) Assemble the pipe. Be careful to make sure they screen and steel wool with the packing slides over the inside tube correctly and without snags. I found it easier to put the packing into the end cap and outer shell first to make sure the outlet hole fit into the screen and steel wool. Then I slid the inside tube and inlet side end cap into the assembly being careful to line up the inside tube with the outlet hole and then to line up the carbon fiber shell with the inlet end cap.
* it was good to have the inside tube longer than the shell so that I could line up one end at a time!

Step 9) Check your rivet holes - drill a bit more to clean them up and line everything up if needed.

Step 10) Rivet the outside band back onto the assembly to seal it up.

Step 11) Remount awesome new, shortened pipe to your bike.

Hozhead

More pictures

CBRF2Old

Nice work Hoz! Does it sound any different? It definitly looks good!

Hozhead

There may be a negligible volume increase but that's about it. I'm pleased that it sounds like I didn't have to spend a few hundred $$$ to replace it.

CBRF2Old

Now that you mention it, that does "sound" pretty good.

epoch

Damn man... congrats- thats some good work right there! I not only did it save you some cash, but I actually like the loks better too!

Nick1983

Nice work Dave. You never cease to amaze.

Kwood The One

diddo