TrainingWheels

I bought a 2000 CBR929 this spring and the first time I took it off the rear lift it fell over on the left side because the side kick stand wasn’t over center. (Lessons learned) resulted in a cracked stator cover.

Ordered a new one and in the meantime JB welded the old one. Put it on and it worked (sorta) still small oil leak $.25 (quarter) sized puddle after setting for 24 hours. Well I figured new stator cover would fix the leak. Installed and reinstalled the new stator cover and the same leak persisted. The leak was so small that it was hard to isolate. The only signs were oil dripping off the lowest point of the stator cover. Another quick fix was to put a small amount of RTV on the thread of the 3 bottom stator cover bolts. When I tightened the bolt just ahead of the water pump (see pictures) I heard a sharp click. (kind of like the sound a torque wrench makes). When done put the bike away and next morning the puddle was 4x larger than usual.

I decided to try a technique that an old Diesel mechanic showed me for localizing leaks. Last night I took the lower fairings off and cleaned & dried up the oil on the lower crankcase and stator cover with brake cleaner. Then sprayed white powdery antiperspirant (like Arid extra Dry) around the suspected leak area and let it dry. As the oil leaks it discolors the white antiperspirant and makes the source easier to see.

It took 3 attempts but we were able to localize the leak, it’s not the stator cover or the stator cover gaskets it’s a crack in the crank case just behind the stator cover on the 2nd bolt up from the bottom at the back. (clicking noise bolt) by the water pump. Again see pictures for details.

My understanding is that these bikes are notorious for cracking stator covers even when they get layed over in a garage/driveway and are also known to crack the back side of the crank case during the same incident. Such is my problem now. So my questions is if this is common is there a common repair? Am I typically going to have to pull the engine, dismantle it and have it welded? Or can I just have a welder weld it in place? Is JB weld an option? I searched the forum on fireblades.org and see several occurrences of the problem but not much about the repair?

Any input would be helpful, and thank you in advance

Attached Images

	case bottom up.jpg (85.6 KB, 31 views)
	Back leak 1.jpg (91.2 KB, 32 views)
	back oil leak closeup.jpg (80.5 KB, 32 views)

DB Cooper

I had a 2001 929 for 10 years and I never ever heard of this as a notorious problem. The only thing that wore out after 10 years of riding it was the thermostat. Keep in mind that normal wear parts were replaced, chains, sprockets and brake pads.

Can you get it welded?

Back Of The Pack

As that area isn't a structurally important piece of the bike I would say that some alumaweld is an option or know weld as the object is just to stop a leak. Just my opinion.

BLIZANTHIMUM

i had a engine case welded up once and i had to pull the whole motor out cause thats what they wanted.
i had Norco in meridian do it for just the cost of materials used.

TrainingWheels

Okay maybe "Notorious" is over stated maybe "common" is a better term.
As far as regular maintenance: that has nothing to do with my problem. I have had several Hondas over the years and never had a compaint about their performance. I was just trying to inquire to the BRN'ers if they have run across this "common" issue and if they knew of a common fix.
I'm sure it could be welded, to what extent of strip down it will need is the prevalent question.

BOP I google'd Alumaweld and it came back with "Alumaweld: Premium Welded Aluminum Fishing Boats" are you referencing something like JB weld.

DB Cooper

Your own doings cracked your engine case then you try and make it sound like it's a "common" Honda problem that the engine case is cracked because you dropped the bike in your garage. C 'mon Man , nobody here is buying that BS.

Now that the real story is out there.

Can you get it welded and fixed so you can ride it?

Back Of The Pack

You can get it at any auto parts place, its like a 2 part putty that you mix by hand, JB weld is runny and takes forever to dry this stuff is easier to use. I used it to seal a transmission that had cracked all the way through dries hard as a rock and can be grinded smooth.

theduckllr

Pray. Jesus can fix any problem. At least that's what they tell me.

ConradM

You just described JB weld.

Unless it changed in recent years, I don't remember JB weld being runny. It should also be a 2 part that you have to mix.

cms1172

Personally, I would use the Alumiweld, Make sure its really clean, inside and out. Ruff up the surfaces and pressure it into the crack from both sides.
Should last forever.

JamesD

oops

ConradM

When I wrecked my first bike, I split my helmet all the way up the back. Took a few days but I JB welded it back together. Sanded it down to a smooth finish and painted over it, you couldn't even tell it was ever cracked.

and no I didn't wear it, I had a new helmet, I just wanted to see if it would work.

JamesD

I cracked a side cover and patched it with JB Weld. Follow the instructions, ,make sure it is clean and patch it from the inside out
I remember the first CBR 9 I saw, had Diablo for the license. F'ing most bad@ss bike I ever saw. I can still picture it. Amazing bike.

2wheelsdown

Should have got a ninja. Lol

TrainingWheels

[Sarcasm] Okay Coop you win I been trying to blame my lack of intelligence on Honda. This whole time when I said I (that me no one else) dropped my bike to God and the whole world that's not what I really meant, I meant it was Honda's lack of overdesign that made the bike fall over and crack itself. WTF. [Sarcasm/]

Did I ever say it wasn't me that dropped the bike? I think you might be reading to much between the lines.Nor was I making "anybody here buy any BS" I wasn't blaming anybody (person/organization/or religious group) for anything. From what I read on Fireblades.org (IMOA) It appears that the 929's and the 954's are susptable to cracking stator covers and the block even if they suffer from a simple kickstand mishap. Is this honda's fault? I don't know, I really don't care. its not the point and it was never intended to be the point and still is'nt the point.

For the record: I DROPPED THE BIKE I HEREBY ACCEPT ALL BLAME AND RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CRACKED STATOR COVER AND CRANKCASE. I'M sorry BRN if i gave you the impression that it was Honda's fault. I'm sorry Honda for allegedly insinuating you built an inferior product. and I'm sorry Cooper if I attempted to get you to buy my BS. Oh and If I missed anybody else I'm sorry for not remembering to apologize to you.

I'm not concerned about the cause now I'm only interested in the cure and getting my baby fixed and back on the road.

Can it be welded? Yah maybe? I'm not positive, we will only know once we get her opened up and look at it closely.

Alright I have spent WAY to much time trying to explain my original post. If people still think I'm feeding them a line of BS, then Let'em think what they want. I'm gonna spend my time fixing and Riding. F it I'm out!

DB Cooper

Ok let's settle this down and get back on track. It seemed to me that you were pointing the finger at Honda. Maybe you were maybe not, I had to call it because I had a 929 and had very good results with it.

No hard feelings on my end, I hope you can get that bike fixed and enjoy it.

Tilos

The Marine/Boat industry has many porducts that would be better in this application than JB Weld.
Stuff that's made just for crankcases and drives, and I'm sure available at local boat shops.

http://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid...w=1280&bih=693

just sayin'
Tilos

cms1172

Really, who cares how it happened.

He wants to fix it, that is all.

A non stressed member like that should easily be be welded.

DB Cooper

I think you missed my point. Seems to be allot of confusion in this thread. I wasn't concerned how he did it, the engine case cracked from the fall and he owned up to that. Ok, you still with me?

He later states the bike was notorious for the engine block cracking and provides supporting statements from the Fireblades website. I interpret this at this point that he screwed up then tried to put some partial blame on the bike for having "common" cracking issues. First I ever heard this, like I said after 10 years of owning that bike never heard that.

Maybe to clear up some of the reading between the lines if it would have been stated that he needed help with getting the crack fixed and leave out the "common" issues so it would not mislead the reader. Now we know that was not his intention after I called it. Still with me?

Then his later posting showed he was very sarcastic and butthurt in my opinion. . After all said and done his engine case is cracked and he is asking for advice which he received. Again, I hope he gets it fixed. I gues people interpret things differently by the way the info is presented. Hopefully this will clear up the who's on first situation. Again, no hard feelings on my end.

Liteone

umm, here's my take on the confusion.

Honda does have an issue. The issue never arises UNTIL the bike gets dropped in a vertical motion.

Is the problem on every bike? Ya. if the conditions are wrong.

Will the bike run for 1000,000,0000 miles and never leak? Probably, if it doesn't get dropped from the kick stand.

Will it crack and leak IF dropped on it's side? Possibly. if it hits at the right angle and force.


So, Training wheels is fixing HIS bike, just like all the others in the country that have had the same issue.

ShotGunBetty

I think training wheels is saying that the 929 has a sensetive case. Through his searches he discovered that even with a slight tip over at a dead stop his bike is prone to more damage than other bikes. Which very well could be due to materials used in manufacture or a certain design on that bike that makes it more damage prone. He fully admitted he dropped it and its his fault ... But the amount of damaged caused seems unusual for bikes in general, but common for his make/model.

I can see his point. I have dropped a gsxr, a F2, a F4i and an r1 ... I think that's it lol... And damage has been minimal. One thing I noticed about F4i's is Honda did a good job tucking the gas tank in so when you do tip it, the tank doesn't get banged up. The R1 was similar but the GSXR tank was not as protected ... These bikes are designed by engineers who take information like what is going to get damaged when it hits the ground into consideration. It could be that that year and model that was not explored as effeciently as it should have been.... Imo that would make it a common issue upon accidental tip over.

Any way... Just jb weld it and ride it till winter then u can tear it apart all you want!

ShotGunBetty

Did you ever drop it...case side to the ground?



I also recommend the alumi-weld. "WE" (just for clarification WE is people I know personally who have used both products) have had better luck with it than JB weld.

I think Devcon, valcon, belzona are other makers or types of epoxy like products.. I think those were the names... JB weld is a consumerized epoxy type product - meaning it has been made safe for the public to use ... If you are concerned about it you could always look for an industrial type epoxy or weld product that may be better than JB Weld..or it may not... Or it may be cheaper just to actually weld it!!!!!

DB Cooper

Clutch side yes, stator side no. Was a 929 forum guy at one point. Never ever heard of engine cases (engine block, not stator cover or clutch) on this bike as a common known problem.

I think he just had some bad luck with his bike after debating this some. I really hope he can get it back on the road soon.

ConradM

lost cause

i have seen this problem, on the 2nd 954rr i bought all tho my crack runs thru one of the bolts that does not have oil around it. alumuinm welding would be your best bet tim's welding off cloverdale should have no problem doing it.

RedStar

JBWeld. I have used it on stator cover cracks, radiator cracks, gas tank cracks. Works like a charm!

TrainingWheels

Thanks everyone for their suggestions we are working throught this... We have slowed the oil leak down considerably. Next round is to see if its still leaking from the same location or not. Then go from there

lost cause

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