ShotGunBetty

I think my rectifier is bad... bike runs for awhile....gets to operating temp and then dies... over and over .... like in traffic when I go to stop at a light... the only way to keep it from dying is to keep the RPM's high.

SO lost cause says it is my rectifier and I have been looking online and found some other solutions as it seems that this is a really common problem with F2's ... I have posted what I found here -

what do you guys think about swapping it for the GSXR rectifier? as stated below .... and if it seems like a good idea ... does anyone have a rectifier I could pick up locally?? and what is your opinion on cooling fins? on the r/r

Here is what I found so far:::::

Regulator rectifier (R/R) problem solved
There's a lot of threads about troubleshooting RR, but it's hard to find info on where to buy a good replacement. So here' my story. If you're not into long stories just skip to next message for usefull links.
I bought my 1991 cbr F2 in May 2006 with 16,000. I knew that R/R was a weak spot, so when I had my battery die on me AFTER a ride in October 2006, I decided to check the regulator/rectifier voltage output first. At idle it was about 12.3, and no matter how high I would rev it up it wouldn't read more than 12.4.
Before blaming the R/R I did the stator check: consistent resistance 0.5 -0.6 between each 3 wires and cosistent AC voltage as well
( about 50V at 5000rpm). I also checked resistance between each stator wire and ground- there was no short. That means stator is good.
I also tried to do reg/rect resistence check according to Clymer manual, but you need a special brand multimeter.
I went to www.electrosport.com to buy replacement ( $110). I installed it and around 5000rpm I would get 14.5 V- good!!
I had my headlight off the bike at that time and I did carburator synch( which includes a lot of idling). I finished that and took the bike for a ride- everything seemed ok. Then, before putting the plastics back I decided to check the R/R voltage again to be sure, and--it was 12.3 at 5000rpm. I was shocked!!! My new Electrosport Reg/rec got fried in one day. I did load it up pretty good by idling without headlights for 15-20 mins while doing carb synch but still!!
I took off R/R and did R/R DIODE TEST according to this ( Page C)
http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/gener...lt_finding.pdf
I highly recommend this troubleshooting chart.
I found that one of the diodes was bad.
I called electrosport and since my unit has a warranty they agreed to exchange it for me. Later I found out that you can put a suzuki gsxr unit, so I cancelled my elecrtosport reg/rect and they refunded my money( except for shipping).

I bought a 2003-2004 gsxr R/R off ebay for $20.
It has 5 wires, like honda but the connector is different.
Identifying wires is easy:
Honda Suzuki
3 white( alternator) 3 black
1 Red ( positive)1 black/red
1 green( negative)1 black/white
I cut off both connectors and soldered the wires, since I heard the connectors are a part of the problem anyway( they create a lot of resistence and my cause R/R to burn)

Suziki R/R is much bigger than honda unit, and since I'm kinda a perfectionist I removed all the bolts that attach the plate through which R/R is mounted to the frame. I drilled 2 new holes, so that new suzuki gsxr R/R seats perfectly, I also used CPU heat grease between the plate, R/R and frame( just in case). Suzuki Unit fits perfectly and has enough clearance for plastics and seat. It does seem to give out a lot of charge right off idle and then taper off to 14.5 as rpms increase.( 12.3 at idle 14.8 at 2300 rpm 14.5 at 5000)
I also installed a 5 function digital voltmeter. http://www.casporttouring.com/store/...de=Electronics
I attached it to the speedometer lig

RE: Regulator/rectifier (RR) problem solved
I have also just noticed that my RR does have cooling fins so I assume it has been changed before.

3) Where to buy
a) used gsxr or yamaha unit ( I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting a suzuki unit.(I have 2003-2004 GSXR1000 but I think all units about after 2000 are interchangeable.MAKE SURE it HAS only ONE CONNECTOR on the end, not two.) It has wires coming out of it as opposed to the connector, so it's very easy to solder , to the wire harness. It's a little bit more work, but should be the most reliable solution. )
ebay $20- 100

b) tour max unit ( i've heard that those are pretty reliable,and its plug in 'n play set up )
at cycletherapy.com or ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CBR-6...spagenameZWD1V

c) new updated oem honda unit with cooling fins ( I also heard that those might be good, plug in 'n play as well)
http://partsfinder.ridenow.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

d) electrosport and rick's aftremarket R/R

I've heard mixed reviews of their products. Anybody has electrosport or ricks?
www.electrosport.com
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

( My electrosport unit ESR580 didn't look like it's picture on the website.( the unit I got was similar, but the cooling fins where much smaller, which already got me alerted) Then it burned in one day , however it might have been a single bad part and the rest of them good- I don't want to write the company off my list as yet, especially when they have a great troubleshooting diagrams on the website and customer service was good)
I didnt try Ricks, I read in some forums it's better than electrosport.

RE: Regulator/rectifier (RR) problem solved
GSXR RRdoesn't plug in, because the plug is different. The easy way is
crimping wires but the proper way is to solder them together( because
connectors may create resistence and cause RR to burn out)
Identifying wires is easy:

Honda Suzuki
3 white( alternator) 3 black
1 Red ( positive) 1 black/red
1 green( negative) 1 black/white

Let me know if you have anymore questions

Ar15 guy wrote:
I noticed the GSXR RR doesn't just plug in correct? I may try your
mod since my RR is shot I think. I didn't search threw your post to
indepth yet but did you label which wires to solder where?

RE: Regulator/rectifier (RR) problem solved
3 white wires are interchangeable


SOOOOOO what is BRN's take on this? Any help from fellow or former F2 owners??

Linker33

Anything GSXR is better...

ShotGunBetty

That wasn't very damn helpful Linker

Linker33

OK, fine...

http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/140473.aspx

http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/gener...lt_finding.pdf

2wheelsdown

Ride the R1 until the hubby gets it fixed. Don't give in either.

Back Of The Pack

CBRF2Old

I replaced the rectifier in my F2 a few years ago after it fried two batteries (one was a brand new battery... ). I didn't have the same symptoms yours has. I would run through the checks in the link that Linker posted.
As for a replacement rectifier, I don't recall where I got mine from but it does have the cooling fins. One of the main reasons that these things fail is excessive heat and the F2 doesn't have good airflow over the rectifier. If you replace it, make sure that you use some heat sink grease (I can't remember what the stuff is actually called) between the rectifier and frame mount.

shaner

So is it killing the battery totally or just shutting the bike off? If its the rectifier it will fry the battery requiring a new battery to run again. The rectifiers job is to convert the AC current that the stator generates into DC power that the bikes whole electrical system runs off of. If the rectifier is bad then the AC current will usually fry the battery. Dead. Having to rev the bike up at stops sounds more like a dead cell in the battery to me. When it dies can you jump it to get it running again?

So basically, if its just draining the battery it is probably not the rectifier. Look at the battery itself or the stator in this case. If it is killing the battery it is probably the rectifier.

m5james

I had a huge charging issues last summer, kept me out for a better part of the season. For me it ended up being a main fuse block problem, removed a relay, and replaced the recifier/regulator w/ a newer style MOSFET style box for more accurate charging. My issue was the exact opposite as yours...I'd start out charged, then everything would slowly start dying off till it was so dead the guages wouldn't even work even while moving, so if I let off the gas it wouldn't even hold an idle.

Hook the bike up to an ohm/volt meter and run it till it starts to die and let us know what it does. In the meantime, keep searching around on your motorcycle specific forums. It's nice to get local help, but when it comes to specific troubleshooting, I'd rather stick to forums that have the exact same bike who have probably had the same issue instead of coming here and having people recommend parts to keep throwing at it till it works. Until I spend some time on my TL boards, I never would have found out about my main fuse being corroded or which upgraded R/R to get w/o other TL members help.

ShotGunBetty

Thanks for the suggestions and feedback guys! I have a good idea now where to go from here - I am throwing it back together this afternoon and we'll see what happens from there!

shaner

You guys need any help with it? If so just call.

ShotGunBetty

Cool , thanks / just spun around the neighborhood a couple of times and it didn't die so...... Fingers crossed!