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| | #1 |
| Senior Member Joined: Mar 2006 From: Scottsdale, AZ Posts: 1,526
| Wobbles (Headshake)
Today was the first day in a looong time that I was actually scared to wheelie Last night on the way to a friends house I was doing a 2nd gear stand up wheelie. Ive been averaging between 75-85mph at BP. Every once in a while I'll wrap it out at 110mph. But I dont like to do it above 85 b/c of either, me shifting my weight to steer or the wind buffering me, which leads to me getting the wobbles. So while doing one, I saw another biker merging onto the freeway. As I was just about to him, I started to get the wobbles, at this point I'm used to them(had it happen a few times already but nothing serious) and they either stabilize or I put the front end down asap to stop the wobble. But instead I decided to show off and hold it up past him... Well the wobbles didnt stabilize, so I put the front tire down, indicating 100mph, and without hesitation the wobbles turned into a headshake!At this point everything went to slow motion. Im watching the handlebars hit the left turn stop then slamming into the right bar stop. The handlebars probably went left right left right a dozen times before I threw my weight forward onto my arms and went WOT to bring the front back up. The second my front tire was off the ground again it stopped....Ya i pooped myself and my knees are bruised from slapping the tank, but luckily saved it. So question is...whats the correct...correction for stopping a headshake and/or wobbles. I remember somewhere to NOT brake or de-accelerate but to get the weight off the front tire while absorbing the whipping of the handlebars from left to right. Worked for me ![]() Out of all my "near death/wrecks" this was by far the worst! Dont get me wrong, on the way back home this morning I did do a but kept it in 1st ![]() This is what it looked like without the ending... **No this isnt me** |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Joined: May 2008 From: Que Nah Posts: 6,268
I Ride: F4i CBR600 |
Had a couple wobbles that turned into tank slaps from no handers....Scary as hell aren't they? I think you did what you should have, but maybe just not quick enough? The sad thing is, as good advice as that may be, it at the same time can end badly! Like you I was able to come out ok, but FOCK they can be scary. Mine were not at 100+ like yours. I would think someone with track time might have a better answer.. |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Joined: May 2006 Posts: 2,349
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Glad you survived. Sounds like you should be teaching us how to stop a tankslapper rather than asking for advice. Anyways, it has never happened to me, but I've been advised not to try to stop headshake by grabbing the bars tightly. Trying to stiff-arm it will transmit the force back into the frame, making things worse. |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Joined: May 2008 From: Que Nah Posts: 6,268
I Ride: F4i CBR600 |
The other thing is prevention, that video is a great example, he had his front wheel turned when he came down. He was also in panic mode from going into the shoulder so I am sure he was not thinking much more than O'CHIT! Cider is right, man handling it can go way way wrong, I was agreeing more with the make front lighter and or get it off the ground to gain front control again. Last edited by whitedevil; 07-02-2010 at 10:18 AM. |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Joined: Aug 2007 From: Boise Posts: 3,205
I Ride: The Armageddon, Orange Crush |
I remember that Isle of Man wobble. That caused his death in the hedge. I have read that applying the brakes causes the forks to compress, which reduces the polar moment of inertia, which forces the tire to ocillate harder from one side to the next. Just like a flat spin in a plane, the advized method is to go loose on the controls and let the vehicle recover. If you can get the wheel off the ground again, that obviously worked too, but I can see how you have very little room to pull it WOT as the bars are bouncing out of your hands! The guy inthe first video holds on for dear life and gets highsided for his troubles. Glad to hear you are ok!
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Joined: Aug 2009 From: mur-ville Posts: 1,166
I Ride: 95 CR500R, various sleds |
I have never had this happen on the street. I had a 98 CR250 that was really bad about lock to lock head shake. It only did it when the bike was topped out, 5th gear, if you hit a sharp faced bump it would go nuts, and there was nothin to do but relax and hope it slows down and stops. I tried to man handle it once, i locked my elbows into my torso but it just beat the hell out of me, it wouldnt wheelie cuz it was topped out, thats some scary stuff!!
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member Joined: May 2009 From: Boise Posts: 1,028
I Ride: Victory Kingpin, The Harley is deceased :( |
I have had this happen on several of my previous bikes. I've found that relaxing on the socks well. That and not panic seems to work well. I still left a hockey on the seat each time though.
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Joined: Jun 2006 From: Boise Posts: 3,025
I Ride: R6 |
I've always used the get on the throttle technique to recover from tank slappers. That was before I got a steering damper. Tank slappers became a thing of the past. The good aftermarket dampers do an awesome job! |
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| | #9 |
| Member Joined: Apr 2010 From: ID Posts: 96
I Ride: Yamaha |
the correct answer is: http://www.scottsperformance.com/scotts.php or equivalent! Nice JOB on the recovery Kevin. ![]() What is a Scotts Steering Stabilizer? It is a compact, fully adjustable, hydraulic shock absorbing stabilizer that mounts to your steering head area right above your handlebar mount. By helping to stabilize the front end of your motorcycle, the rear of the motorcycle will track straighter allowing the rest of your suspension to work the way it was designed to. In addition, the Scotts Steering Stabilizer eliminates that sudden thrust affect of having the handlebars pulled from your hands after unknowingly hitting sharp edged rocks, tree roots or rain ruts. It has also been proven to help minimize rider fatigue and the dreaded arm pumping situation that occurs while wrestling the front end of your bike. Dirt Rider Magazine said, "A Scotts Steering Stabilizer is the single greatest improvement you can make to your motorcycle". Once mounted, it eliminates the unwanted phenomenon known as “Head-shake” that is commonly found on off-road production motorcycles. This is more predominant now a-days due to the steeper head angles you find on production bikes. It helps keep your motorcycle going straight in the whoops and smooths out the rocky sections by preventing those handlebar wrenching jolts and more than likely will help keep you a healthier, happier rider. How does it work? Basically, it operates under the same principle as your front forks. Valving inside the unit reacts to the slightest of jolts that are transferred through the forks and crowns of your motorcycle. Internal circuitry and hydraulic valving absorbs the energy that would have been received through your handlebars. The link arm which connects the stabilizer to the frame, reacts instantaneously, absorbing any unwanted movement. Your suspension was designed to handle the vertical movement of your motorcycle. Scotts Steering Stabilizer completes your suspension package by controlling the unwanted horizontal movement that is continually transferred to your handlebars. Where does the Stabilizer work best? Anywhere there are forces trying to push or pull your front end left to right. If you ride in the desert, Scotts Steering Stabilizer will soon become your best friend. You will find that it completely eliminates the head-shake and instability you get while riding on washboard fire-roads, rocky sections and in high speed sand washes. It helps keep your motorcycle straight in the whoops In the woods. Sharp edged rocks and tree roots that send a shock all the way up to your jawbone are reduced to minor disturbances that allows your suspension to work the way it was intended to. Motocross will find your bike will track straighter through the stutter bumps, big rollers and sweeping turns while assuring secure landings at the end of doubles or tabletops. Being infinitely adjustable, there is no reason not to use it. It has no disadvantages! Last edited by Jester; 07-03-2010 at 09:12 AM. |
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Joined: Mar 2006 From: Scottsdale, AZ Posts: 1,526
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Thanks! So it sounds like relaxing and giving it gas is the solution. If it continues im definitely lookin into gettin Steering Stabilizer. Our bike come with a damper but i heard even with the damper and stabilizer that it doesnt guarantee that it wont happen. Well it was a good learning experience and I hope to those who havent had this prob and come across it, that you learn from my mistake. Have a great 4th of July! |
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| | #11 |
| Senior Member Joined: Jun 2007 From: Boise, Idaho Posts: 1,895
I Ride: 2006 Ninja GSXR 636 |
A little late to the party, but just wanted to say NICE save Kevin! I know what you are talking about with the second gear high speed standups wobbling. It seems with the added wind force the bike is more prone to get those gyrations (correct word?). I had a few that I was worried about but always set them down and they didn't continue. I also had a steering stabilizer on the gsxr, but it was an electronic actuated unit. I was always wondering where the sending unit for the speed was because when pulling wheelies the bars definitely didn't seem to be dampened, so maybe the front wheel? Also the guy in the first vid didn't look like he got the shakes until he set it down, which probably means he had his front wheel janked to one side... no good |
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| | #12 |
![]() ![]() Joined: Apr 2009 From: Boise Posts: 2,752
I Ride: Buell Firebolt XB12R |
Glad you're alright. Be careful man.
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